Dr Martens is working with a group of emerging London designers on a series of collaborations called Statements in Craft. The line-up includes Chopova Lowena, Labrum, Fashion East’s Goyagoma and a separate project with Sage Nation, and the first pairs are already on sale.
Chopova Lowena, the label founded by Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena, gave an early look at its version during its spring/summer 2027 show at London Fashion Week in September. The designers sent out custom pairs from the Aurix line with buckles, topstitching, faux fur and checked finishes. They remember wearing Docs at primary school, at Warped Tour and between university classes, and describe their own label’s spirit as “rebellion and joy”. The Chopova Lowena collaboration arrives this autumn.
Sage Nation’s take is already available. Designer Sage Toda-Nation reworked the 1461 shoe with a double-welt seam along the front, a nod to the welt-stitched trousers he makes, and the detail was produced at the brand’s Made in England factory in Northampton. The 1461 Sage Nation 3 Eye Leather Shoe costs £290. Labrum, run by Sierra Leone-born designer Foday Dumbuya, follows this winter with a Desert Oasis suede boot decorated with the Olokun flower, linked to a West African sea deity. “Craft isn’t only technique, it’s memory,” Dumbuya said.
The project builds on Dr Martens’ long history. Dr Klaus Maertens designed an air-cushioned sole in 1945 while recovering from a broken foot, and a partnership with the British bootmaker R Griggs Group produced the 1460 boot, with the brand officially launching in 1960. The shoes went on to be worn by punks, mods, Britpop fans and American grunge musicians in the 1990s. The company calls its current approach alternative craft, pointing to boots still handmade in Northamptonshire and leather from tanneries such as CF Stead in Leeds. The series follows an earlier collaboration with Margaret Howell’s MHL line.
Alongside the designer work, Dr Martens launched a platform called With Bouncing Soles in late September, named after the tagline stitched into its classic styles. It features Chloë Sevigny, musician Jordan Stephens and comedian Naomi Watanabe, and was led by global brand creative director Neil Cummings. The Brewer Street store in London will host events in the coming months, including a set-up by Camberwell’s Lala Books, poetry readings, comedy nights and writing workshops.
